Diving in the Jura

This was not always the case, but today, Jura wines are more than sought after by wine lovers who make an impression. The ones we remember, that give us emotion, that tirelessly make us want to taste again and to understand why the magic is happening.

Even 15 years ago, there was not a strong demand for Jura wines. Then gradually arrived an informed and specialized public, straight from distant destinations such as Japan, the United States, or more locally, from the land Scandinavian Scandinavians

Today, the Jura is also more than popular with French-speaking oenophiles. Since 2023, the world of natural wine has been relatively calm - due to the economic crisis - but the Jura is an exception to the rule and attracts crowds. The 2024 edition of the Nez dans le Vert, an annual meeting around Jura wine, is proof of this. There was a crowd!

So why? Is it a question of terroir and climate? Winemakers with a strong identity? The presence of native grape varieties? A je ne sais quoi that is difficult to perceive? Perhaps a mixture of all these, but we don't think it's wrong to say that the natural wine movement is flourishing brilliantly in the Jura. 

And it is true that in terms of taste, Jura wines tick the boxes of what the naturophile public is currently looking for: acidity, minerality, liveliness, elegance, and depth.

Through this article, we will take a deep dive into the Jura and unravel with you some of the mysteries of this little corner that has become a paradise for lovers of living wines.

Geographically, what is the Jura like?

Located in the Franche-Comté region, the surface area of the Jura vineyard barely exceeds 1800 hectares, making it the smallest wine region in the territory. It benefits from a great diversity of terroirs and the climate is semi-continental.

The soils are dominated by marl soils, but also clays from the Lias and Triassic periods and Bajocian limestones dating from the Jurassic period (150 million years ago). Rocks favourable to the vine, which make the grapes concentrated.

The vineyard can be divided into three main parts:

• The north, whose epicentre is around Arbois, is marked by the influence of Pierre Overnoy
• The centre, with its prefecture Lons-le-Saunier
• The south, organized around the commune of Rotalier, the land of Jean-François Ganevat for example

 

In terms of climate, the Jura is not easy... The weather is capricious. The rainfall rate is high, frost and hail episodes are frequent and summers are uncertain, sometimes stormy. Rather trying for our winemaker friends, who year after year go through a lot of troubles, forced to be ingenious and organized. But also united; which is part of their strength.

On a more positive note, the Jura has significant temperature differences between day and night, which is known to be favourable to the ripening of the grapes. In these regions with a challenging climate, you can find very great wines. The Jura bears witness to this...

As for grape varieties, there are mainly Chardonnay, Poulsard, Savagnin, Pinot Noir and Trousseau. But also a large number of rarer and autochthonous grape varieties, which also contributes to the richness and unique identity of the local wines.

On the AOC side, there are no less than 7: AOC Arbois; AOC Château-Chalon; AOC L'Etoile; AOC Côtes du Jura; AOC Macvin (a liqueur wine, the product of the assembly of must and brandy from Jura marc) ; AOC Crémant; AOC Marc du Jura.

The place of natural wine

One of the masters of natural wine: Pierre Overnoy, a great emblematic figure!

In their impeccable work " Between the vines, 3 generations of Jura winemakers Guillaume Laroche and Cédric Blatrie even write "Without the sacrifices of a Pierre Overnoy or a Marcel Lapierre, would the natural wine movement have seen the light of day?" ; It is obvious that his thoughts and actions were decisive.

A family settled in Pupillin, and from the beginning, a modern vision of viticulture. At the beginning of the story, there is Louis, who settled at the beginning of the twentieth century, and who made the choice to carefully select his vines, to favor only the varieties best suited to the territory and climate.

Pierre, his son, took up the torch in the 60s and left to train near Beaune. But now, this visionary decides that what he is taught does not suit him. He returned to the Jura with the conviction that pesticides and synthetic chemistry were harmful.

It was her meeting with Jules Chauvet in 1975, another essential figure in the world of natural wine, that was decisive and that accompanied her in her choices. With him, he learned to work without sulphur, without sulphites, with the greatest respect for nature.

His wines are of such purity and intensity that he inspires others to follow his movement. It is largely thanks to him that living wine has made its place in the Jura.

In the iconic genre, there is also Jean-François Ganevat, for many one of the greatest virtuosos the world of wine has known. He was a fervent defender of forgotten grape varieties, a fine connoisseur of biodynamics and his creations are still highly sought after. He has undeniably influenced the nature movement of the Jura and has inspired more than one.

These two figures have had and still have a major place in the free wine landscape in the region, but they have also radiated beyond these borders. A real source of inspiration for a new generation that has settled in and has largely proven itself. The Jura is not lacking in young talent!

We love the work of Alice Bouvot from the Domaine de l'Octavin, based in Arbois and gifted at transmitting emotion to us through her creations.

Les Bottes Rouges ! Elegant and vibrant wines made by the hands of the talented Jean-Baptiste Menigoz and Florien Kleine.

Yves Roy, from Domaine Novice, Tony Bornard, troublemaker and brilliant winemaker, Stéphane Tissot and his astounding wines of magnitude, Philippe Chatillon and its wines with a unique energy, Catherine Hannoun passionate reconverted, Kevin Bouillet who took over the family business in 2018, Julien Maréschal from Domaine de La Borde, which offers us impeccable wines of precision... We could mention still others.

How do they taste these bewitching wines?

An unequalled, intense aromatic. Notes that are sometimes smoky, often saline, specific to the soil, to the territory.

Poulsard and Trousseau, typical of the region, are wild grape varieties, with spicy, peppery flavours and fruit of good density. For the reds, there is also Pinot Noir, a more common grape variety, the king of the Burgundian neighbours, which has the reputation of being delicate and elegant.

As for whites, the region offers superb Chardonnay and Savagnin! The Jura is made up of world-renowned whites. Floral notes, tension and minerality, this is often what we will remember from these delicious canons.

But the Jura is also known worldwide for its speciality: yellow wine! Made from Savagnin, it is emblematic and unmissable, directly recognizable by its golden yellow color and especially its unique 62cl container, called clavelin.

The secret comes from the winemaking method ... A long ageing, of more than 6 years, and without topping up, that is to say without filling with wine the space that is created by evaporation over time. What has evaporated over the years (about 20% in total) after a long-term work, inherits the poetic name of "angels' share".

The wine oxidizes little by little, becomes concentrated, the juice develops complex aromas, tending to dried fruits and particularly nuts for some, toast or curry for others.

 

A stay in the Jura

We can only recommend a stay in the Jura, to meet those who do.

In addition to an immersive dive into the world of wine, which can be done through cellar visits or meetings, the region has many other assets to offer. Starting with a green and preserved nature: mountains, lakes, forests, waterfalls... But also by a gastronomy rich in flavors, including unique cheese specialties.

You can take a look at the Bistrot des Claquets in Arbois, a meeting place offering generous home cooking and an impeccable selection of local vintages. You will certainly be able to meet some winemakers there.

And if not, for a more folkloric atmosphere, don't miss the annual meeting of the Breakthrough of Vin Jaune, which is organised at the beginning of each year.